Things to Do in Viña Del Mar

Ride the antique funicular up to Wulff Castle viewpoint

The wooden car creaks and groans as you climb, revealing a panorama of ochre cliffs and the city's tiled roofs. From the top you can taste the cold ocean wind and watch surfers bob like seals beyond the breakwater.

Sunset picnic on Playa Las Salinas

You'll feel the sand still warm from the day as vendors wheel past selling caramel-filled churros. The sky bruises to violet. Fishing boats blink their green lanterns on the horizon.

Wander Quinta Vergara after the festival crowds leave

February's song contest empties the park, leaving only the scent of clipped grass and crushed orange blossom. Peacocks strut across the amphitheater stage. You can almost hear last night's encore echoing off the tin roof.

Sea-kayak to the sea-lion colony off Renaca

Paddle strokes echo against the cliff while the animals bark in hoarse chorus. The water is cold enough to numb your fingers. Twenty glossy heads pop up beside your boat. Worth the chill.

Casino Viña poker room at 2 a.m.

The air tastes of recycled oxygen and polished brass. Chips clack. Slot machines ping in minor keys. A waitress in a bolero jacket brings pisco sours without being asked.

Cerro Castillo - hilltop B&Bs with bay views and morning fog rolling in

Playa Acapulco - high-rise hotels steps from the sand, handy for sunrise swims

Arlegui, quiet residential pocket dotted with small guesthouses smelling of jasmine

Reñaca - condo towers and surf hostels sharing the same sunset strip

El Golf - budget residenciales near the bus station, handy for early departures

Quinta Vergara - boutique mansions turned into leafy courtyard hotels